" I think there's a difference between being considered a futuristic designer and being an innovative designer. They are two different things that people mix up. You could be on a farm, using natural materials and be incredibly innovative without using a single bit of wire, electricity, fuel or metal. So for me, technique and the way you think is what's interesting. I think of myself as someone who connects things that don't necessarily seem connected -- in different fields and cultures. So I guess I see myself as a weaver of different worlds, and I think the innovation comes from that."
Hussain Chalayan is a true iconoclast that doesn't fear to limit his visions based on any boundaries set by the world. He is truly a multimodal artist whose influences are rooted in history, technology, human behavior. Because of how diverse his interests and talents lie, he would have achieved success in any art form he chose, the fashion world being fortuitous to be beholden to him, in an otherwise cold, unrelenting and robotic society.
As a truly unique talent, he is London's only true avant garde designer, uncompromising and unyielding in his approach to design as well as creation. His graduate collection at the famed Central Saint Martins, entitled " The Tangent Flows"contains clothing he buried deep with in the ground then exhumed as part of the process, just before the show, in a ritual of resurrection. In doing this, Chalayan show cases the process of oxidation with textiles.
Chalayan is highly praised and lauded as one of the most cerebral designers of this era, integrating an innovative approach which incorporates a synergy of science, technology, and art in the creation of his spectacular seasons collection. He has won designer acclaim and has been featured in exhibitions around the world. The perennial designer's work has consisted of center piece moving dresses incorporating LED lights with Swarowski jewelry in a manner which treats the pieces with function versus their innate quality as jewelry, dresses containing moving airplane parts and Tyvek garments that resembled furniture and could be folded down to envelope size. These works have been showcased in museums such as the Palais du Louvre, London’s Design Museum, the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York and the Museum of Contemporary Art in Tokyo.
Sankuanz was founded by designer Shanguan Zhe in 2008, who lives in Xiamen with his team. Through their sojourn through China, the Sankuanz team has thoroughly researched many nuances of traditional textile processing and design art, combining a multifaceted approach with tradition and modern fashion to illustrate his use of hybridism. Although Shanguan's designs may appear anything but simple, at the heart of his ethos lies a love for design that translates to a simplicity,placing an emphasis on comfort and cloth texture. Apart from these, Shangguan Zhe keeps trying various matching of fabrics, in which wool, cotton, linen and chiffon could go together. His fashion aesthetic is closely tied to his delicate feeling for life and the immediate capture of mood, which add thick poetic feeling to his seemingly plain works.
Late American artist Cy Twombly was the inspiration for the recent Men's Spring 2018 Show in Paris, an artist mainly known for "romantic symbolism" that can be interpreted through shapes, symbols that large scale works with a graffiti-like quality. Twombly was also an influence on Jean Michel Basquiat and Fransceco Clemente. Zhe saw Cy's retrospective gallery at the Pompidou this past fall and was drawn to the innocent strength in work. The current collection is an homage to the simplicity and innocence in Cy's work. The contrast between classic cuts and contemporary favorites created a dialogue that was both fresh and reinvigorating with central pieces being rooted in workwear--such as bomber jackets, fatigue camo and wide shorts. As one of the more promising new brands showing in Europe, Sankuanz glowed with an energy & aura that threw a kaleidoscope of influences and atypical fabrics into the mix with its offerings of battered garments, elongated military jackets, comically large bags as well as poetic musings printed in contemporary typography.
Vastly superior was the tailoring, a nod to the artist’s Italian origin, that brought about a nuanced use of layering with bi-layer jackets that served well cut on their own, or as a pairsof bomber and jacket, jacket and overcoat. As for the paint-coated muslins and coated fabrics, they stayed on the right side of pliant as coats or trousers. The final group in scribbles and paint splatters was reminiscent of Twombly’s work, and radiated with energy.
Matthew Palmer used to pimp out his outfit while at school at Ricksmanworth over a decade ago, layering two shirts on top of his blazer while sporting the required uniform. Self admittedly, Matthews coyly says his classmates would leave him at the running butt of a joke as a result. Fast forward to today, where the Palmer Harding brand won the BFC Fashion Fund Vogue Award in April with £100,000 and mentoring from experts at Burberry and Google. With Michelle Obama sporting the brand at the summit for Partnership for America event earlier this month, it illustrates how times have changed.
The newly established powerhouse duo of Levi Palmer and Matthew Harding met each other in London during their schooling at the world renowned Central Saint Martins. Unlike most designers which offer a plethora of ranges of styles and collection, Palmer Harding has decided to focus and hone their craft to the mastery of one garment, the shirt-- as well as perfect it. Birthed in 2011, British label Palmer//Harding is celebrated in particular for its signature lines of directional shirt designs. Curiously striking in silhouette and crisply tailored, Palmer Harding clothing offers up a progressive rework of modern classics to execute a mature, tasteful, stylized and unique collection. Highly structural as well as stylized, Palmer Harding clothing illustrates potential in the mundane.
Superfluous functional detail as ornament has become a widespread idiom in womenswear—for example, sweaters with extra sleeves tied in pretty knots, shirts with upside-down extra collars, that type of thing—but what Palmer Harding do so well is add those details in ways that make them not just attractive but useful too. Key among this archetype include a black trench with unbuttonable sections allowing you to build your own lapel. A mishmash shirt in a blue and white Bengal stripe overlaid with a wider navy and ochre stripe featured a removable panel for meaningful baring of the shoulder blade, while a shirt-cloak hybrid in pink cotton Oxford—so very Brooks Brothers, but also totally not—was three garments in one depending on your mood and your handiness with the buttons. Attractive quirk that actually works? It’s a compelling combination.
the numbers 1-9 are meaningful to me as a designer as they form the foundation of all other numbers besides the no. 0.
like the origination of numbers, i want my designs to be true to their original form and purpose. the material of my pieces can vary however the form will always stay the same. in other words, you only know where to go when you know where you come from...that is true in life and no different within my designs.
everything i do begins with one thought, one purpose and from there it develops. the more you understand the original form the more we develop in a certain way and creative way. it is important to me to make that statement clear through my designs.
MM6 is a complementary vision that is an ode to the femininity within the ethos of Martin Margiela. The Belgian native launched the namesake label in 1988, and although he is no longer with the house, his design spirit lives on. Serving as a companion line of wearable clothing, accessories, and footwear, MM6 draws its inspiration from the more colloquial, casual moments of everyday life. MM6 represents a more street-inspired, ready-to-wear take on Margiela's intellectual approach to luxury. Tongue-in-cheek prints, graphical witticisms, geometric forms and sneakers are showcased in Margiela's vision.
"Anybody who's aware of what life is in a contemporary world is influenced by Margiela," Marc Jacobs told Women's Wear Daily in 2008. To say it's difficult to sum up the accomplishment's of Martin Margiela in one article is beyond an understatement. Known as fashion's invisible man, Margiela is notorious for avoiding the spotlight, a reaction he has to what he feels to be an overly commercialized industry. Instead, he prefers his work to do the talking, the audience should focus on the design aesthetic as opposed to the celebrity of the designer.
During his tenure at Maison Martin Margiela, he did not grant interviews, was not photographed, and did not appear at the end of the Maison Martin Margiela runway show, as is customary in the fashion industry. Communication with the press was conducted via fax, and all correspondence was signed "we" instead of "I". Many in the fashion media contended that Margiela's illusiveness was a publicity stunt. For their part, Maison Martin Margiela asserted that Margiela's disappearance was a genuine attempt to return the focus of fashion to the clothing, and not the personas behind it.
Martin Margiela is considered the honorary seventh member of the esteemed group of designers known as The Antwerp Six, which includes Dries Van Noten and Ann Demeulemeester, at the time the work of these designers represented a radical breakthrough. Their vision was so distinct and different it put Antwerp on the map as a a reputed fashion destination.
Y-3 AW 2017_TECHNOLOGY AND NATURE
In the high-paced, perplexing world of fashion, longevity is rare and hard to come by. Yet Yohji Yamamoto has perpetuated his iconic partnership with Adidas for 13 years; showcasing his masterful tailoring, attention to detail, and his effortless blend of flowing sportswear & high couture technical garments. As the living legend pointed out his enduring partnership stood the test of time, often in his own perplexity and disbelief at his ongoing success, we rejoiced in the display of his work for generations to come.
The frostbitten Palais de Tokyo upon the northern bank of the River Seine amalgamated the setting for this year’s Adidas Y-3 show at Paris Fashion Week, with several goth-ninjaesque enthusiasts enduring the cold to bear witness to the 2017 Fall Winter launch. Juxtaposed together harmoniously: women's, men's and sportswear were united by Yohji's seamless synergy of flawless design and sportswear.
A smooth, yet distorted electric guitar played fluidly while the syncopation of constant jazz rock drums opened up the Fall Winter 2017 Y-3 show. In unison, the all black runway lit up in the middle to all white followed by a forest green camo background to showcase the theme of the collection. The somber elegance displayed was an homage to Yohji's technical yet, effortless style. Fall Winter's theme served to explore the relationship between technology and nature, presented through the looking glass of a "digital forrest", the contrast exhibited by dappled shadow and vivid uniform light brought the idea to life. This awe inspiring narrative challenged the utilitarian idea of living in a digital world where the role of technology has usurped our lives, the challenge of living in a modern world was reclaimed by innocence and nature.
Y-3 success is largely owed to its unapologetic, unwavering consistency and its brand identity in constantly exploring the intersection of fashion and technology, with mostly a monochromatic palette. The layered, thick dark slices of Yamamoto heaven showcased fascinating details: enveloping outerwear layers with fluid lines, the criss-crossing of heavy duty zip ups and straps, perforated knitwear to serve as a layering accent, the thin sliver of green served to high light the plethora of drop crotch infused silhouettes. Ultimately, Y-3's show was successful in utilizing space to created the effect of a forest floor blanketed by darkness but pierced by the effervescent rays of sunlight hitting its perforations. Elongated nylons, digital forest prints and gross grain weaved fabric further served to exemplify Yohji's balance of harmony within nature, design and technology.
Created in 1993, PLEATS PLEASE ISSEY MIYAKE is a ready-to-wear collection for the modern day woman to suit her every need. It combines elegance and functionality through the collection's designs and innovative pleating technique that is unique to this line.
Issey Miyake began experimenting with pleats in 1988 after his ISSEY MIYAKE A-ŪN exhibition. He was inspired by William Forsythe's production The Loss of Small Detail for the Fankfurt Ballet to create a new type of pleated clothing that emphasizes and enhances movement.
Clothing that uses the traditional pleating technique pleats the fabric first, then cuts and sews the garment together. For a more unique and dynamic effect, Miyake discovered a new pleating technology called "garment pleating" that uses a specific lightweight knitted material. Instead of pleating the fabric first, "garment pleating" cuts and sews an oversized piece of cloth into the desired silhouette and is then sandwiched between two layers of washi paper and put through a heat press which engrains the shape into the fabric's "memory".
Born and raised in Southern California, Eric Jess is a model, blogger, and photojournalist in the Los Angeles area. He enjoys documenting menswear, travel, and lifestyle. You can follow his journey on his blog: Who Is Eric Jess